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Book Info
Portrait of a City
Rummaging around in the Waterlooplein flea market, you can find an unexpected side of Amsterdam, a souvenir of another city half-hidden in the interstices between history and tourism and screened by the famous 17th-century façades of gabled canal-side houses. You may catch glimpses of it, too, along the battle-scarred route of the Metro where demonstrators fought developers in the 1970s, and on the moving canvas of trams leased out to artists by a playful city council. This is the city that Jan den Hengst and Jacques Constant have captured in a wide-screen preview: a living community with its own alternative lifestyles. Amsterdam is very much a contemporary portrait. All 150 photographs have been specially taken for the book, many of them panoramics stretching across two pages. They show not just the Rembrandts and the Vermeers of the Rijskmuseum, Van Gogh’s sunflowers, the church spires and gun towers, the brown cafés darkened with age and the polychrome excesses of the Gothic Revival, though all of these are here, but also the achievements of the Amsterdam School and the most inventive modern buildings, including the new glass and steel Sloterdijk station. It is a fresh, invigorating and informative insider’s view of one of Europe’s most popular holiday destinations. When you have decided what you would like to see, you can find out how to get there, where to stay, eat, drink or be entertained by turning to the Trip Planner on the inside covers. Here you will find all the practical information you need to plan a visit to Amsterdam, organized under convenient headings with a comprehensive index. ContentsCentral Station
Exchange and Finance Dam and Palace From Post Office to Shopping Centre The Smell of Tar and Ropes Montelbaanstoren and Surrounds Life in the 17th Century Housing in the ’Twenties Life After the ’Eighties Living On and Near Water The University of Amsterdam Hotels on Historic Sites A Sea of Flowers The Magere Brug Area Art and Administration Under One Roof Rummaging in the Waterlooplein Market Jewish History Museum Anne Frank House Renzo Piano’s ‘Shipwreck’ Sail Amsterdam Nature in Miniature The Piety of the Merchant The Oasis of the Pious Women History of a City Eating and Drinking Temple to Lady Fortune Musical Extremes The Rijksmuseum The Past for Sale Advertising from Centuries Ago Markets of Amsterdam Vincent van Gogh in Amsterdam Modern Art Behind Old Walls Amsterdam and Water Public Transport Bank as Fairy-Tale Palace Spaceship for Ajax Amsterdam Schiphol PreviewIn the distant past, travellers from abroad compared Amsterdam to Venice, in part because it was a centre of foreign trade, but primarily because it was dissected in every direction by canals. Even now, many Amsterdammers live on or next to the water. Canal-side houses are among the most expensive in the city. Houseboats are moored stem to stern, sometimes in double rows, on almost every canal. Some are hardly different, in terms of comfort or price, from the houses they look out on. Unlike Venice, however, Amsterdam is not restricted to water traffic. Even if the canals freeze over – which does happen in harsh winters – it causes few problems. The city council simply closes off a large number of canals to round-trip boats and other shipping and gives Amsterdammers a chance to cross the city on skates. A SEA OF FLOWERS The Netherlands has been famous for its flowers ever since the tulip mania of the early 17th century, when fortunes were made and lost as speculators bid up the price of the rarest bulbs to unsustainable peaks. Later, the growing of tulips, hyacinths and other blooms which flourish in the sandy soils around Haarlem settled down and became a serious industry. Today the country is the largest flower exporter in the world. There are even plans to build a tunnel between Amsterdam airport and the huge flower auction at Aalsmeer to make the exporting of flowers easier. In Amsterdam, the main place to find flowers is the famous flower market on the Singel, behind the Munttoren. Even in winter, the market is a sea of cut flowers and flowering plants. Some overflow into the street, others can be found in covered stalls on boats in the canal. The market on the Singel is not the only flower market in the city, but it is the best known. Foreign visitors cluster to buy bulbs there as a memento of the vibrant colours with which the Amsterdammers like to brighten their northern skies. |
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